Traditional Kolhapuri sandals are seeing a surge in sales and renewed interest after luxury fashion house Prada sparked controversy for showcasing a strikingly similar design without acknowledging its roots.Footwear sellers and artisans are riding a wave of nationalist sentiment and social media buzz, turning what some called the Prada “sandal scandal” into a sales opportunity. At the centre of the storm is the Kolhapuri chappal, a handcrafted leather slipper that dates back to the 12th century and hails from Kolhapur, a historic city in Maharashtra.The backlash erupted after Prada unveiled open-toe sandals during a fashion show in Milan, bearing an uncanny resemblance to Kolhapuris, but without crediting the craft. Following widespread criticism, including from Indian politicians, artisans and trade bodies, Prada was compelled to acknowledge the inspiration behind the design.“Prada 0: Kolhapur 1,” said a viral Instagram post by Shopkop, an e-commerce platform run by Rahul Parasu Kamble. His open letter to Prada, which described Kolhapuris as being “soaked in tradition”, was reshared more than 36,000 times.The 33-year old Kamble “saw the controversy as a way to promote Kolhapuri.” He sources footwear from local artisans, which have now soared to Rs 50,000 (£470) in just three days, five times the usual amount.Prada, which does not have any retail outlets in India and markets products primarily to the global elite, said in a statement to Reuters that it plans to meet with Indian artisans. If it proceeds with commercial production of the sandals, it may collaborate with local manufacturers to produce them in India.The uproar has given smaller Indian brands a moment in the limelight. Mumbai-based Ira Soles launched breezy new ads on Facebook and Instagram, proudly declaring, “Tan Handcrafted Kolhapuris just walked the ramp at Prada … Limited stock. Global spotlight. Own a piece of what the world is applauding.” Their £25 sandals are now flying off the virtual shelves.Niira, another online platform, is offering up to 50% discounts on its traditional slippers, which closely resemble Prada’s runway pair. Founder Nishant Raut said the sales have tripled. “Why can’t an Indian Kolhapuri brand become as big as a Birkenstock?” he asked.Roughly 7,000 artisans are involved in making Kolhapuris, mostly by hand, in small-scale workshops. Despite their rich heritage, the craft has been on the decline, with many consumers turning to modern, mass-produced footwear. In 2021, the Indian government said Kolhapuri sandals had the potential to earn $1 billion annually through exports, though more recent figures are unavailable.For artisans like 50-year-old Ashok Doiphode, who stitches sandals by hand for nine hours a day and sells a pair for just Rs 400 (£3.70), the Prada moment offers a glimmer of hope.“If big companies like Prada come, craftsman like me can get a good price,” he said.Lalit Gandhi, head of Maharashtra’s leading industry lobby group, said he is in talks with Prada to develop a limited-edition, co-branded line of sandals, a move he believes could breathe new life into what he calls “a dying art”.From memes to marketing, the Kolhapuri chappal has walked into the global fashion narrative.
